ONE of my favourite travel experiences when I make the occasional visit to Vienna is to head directly to Kruger's Wiener Wüstelstand near Stephansplatz in the central and historic heart of the Austrian capital.
This streetside food stall is one of many in Austria where delicious grilled sausages are served on a bun accompanied by spicy mustard and washed down with a cleansing beverage of choice.
This inexpensive and tasty snack is consumed standing up, year-round through sunny summer days and winter snowfalls.
So, when I heard of a new restaurant in Bangsar named Wurst, it was without hesitation that I booked a table in anticipation of some similar culinary delights.
I'm glad I made the effort as I am rewarded with numerous inspiring dishes served in a vibrant setting and prepared by a visionary chef and his enthusiastic team.
LIVELY SETTING
Locating the streetside outlet in Bangsar's bustling Lucky Garden wasn't an issue but finding a parking spot was something else.
Crowded streets and double-parked vehicles are indicators that the country is on the mend after its Covid hibernation.
The restaurant's colourful entrance and swing makes it stand out from the streetside clutter and suggests whimsical fun waits on the inside.
The welcoming interior is dominated by colourful wall murals and a semi-industrial setting with exposed light tubing adding additional colour and vibrancy.
The long but narrow restaurant has bench seating down one wall and chairs on the other side of several tables.
It is mostly set up for couples or fours with a cosy nook at the rear beside a semi-open kitchen.
There are some stools at the kitchen bench but they appear to be more aesthetic than functional. A cool musical vibe gently fills in any pregnant pauses in conversation or texting moments.
MEANINGFUL MENU
Comfortably seated and being suitably impressed thus far, menus are presented and my eyes light up with what's on offer.
Many of us need things compartmentalised or put in little boxes in order for us to relate to new encounters so for those seeking the kitchen's culinary direction, think modern European deli.
The menu items are pork-free and there are some wines and beers for those seeking them. On my initial inspection, I notice several comfort dishes but several others indicate a more serious approach to satisfying customer cravings.
By chance Chef Logan Lopez is working the wok and as it is still early, he has time to chat and introduce me to some new menu items.
The restaurant relocated from Bukit Bintang in January 2021 and Chef Logan has been tweaking the menu to accommodate his mostly Bangsar clientele.
He tells me that items such as Caesar Salad, mushroom soup, burgers and pasta (aglio e olio) are essential items that simply have to be listed.
Satisfied that non-adventurous diners are accommodated, I move onto the other items to appreciate the care and attention that has gone into the menu's compilation.
I notice a sophistication that extends beyond the playful deli setting. Quizzing the softly-spoken chef, I discover that he is trained in some of Kuala Lumpur's leading restaurants during the course of his youthful years.
He then headed overseas to China and Germany where he added to his repertoire and gained valuable knowledge in order to open up his own establishment.
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
While there are many familiar ingredients listed, it becomes apparent that premium produce is used in dishes that include numerous imported items.
Chef Logan makes many items such as feta cheese, sausages, apple cider (it's alcoholic but ask if there's any non-alcoholic available as it's well worth sampling) but appreciates that sourcing premium items elsewhere is the logical way for him to prepare various dishes.
Some produce is available deli-style to walk-in, non-dining customers. He gladly provides information on his suppliers.
We start with four slices of grilled crostini bread topped with a dollop of garlic rouille (crafted from olive oil, breadcrumbs and Cayenne pepper), sliced egg, slivers of duck salami and topped with house-made mustard.
While not your normal bruschetta, it is brimming with flavour to warrant its price (RM25).
The watermelon and feta cheese salad was suggested as a palate cleanser and this too is excellent with the house-made feta made with the appropriate saltiness and sharpness to balance the sweetness of the melon and the tartness of Peruvian tomatoes plus the addition of greens and baby vegetables that are all finished with a lemon-balsamic dressing.
Soup in the tropics has always baffled me but Malaysian chefs who leave it off the menu do so at their peril.
Furthermore; I'm sure fastidious diners would walk out of a restaurant that omits listing mushroom soup.
Chef Logan lists it but adds a twist or two to maintain his sanity while satisfying the demands of his patrons. He prepares the chunky soup with black truffles and tops it with Parmesan espuma.
While a great lover of firm matured Italian cheeses, this dish doesn't quite work for me as the cheese foam tends to overpower the mushrooms and truffle (if that is possible), but others may lap every last drop of it up with the crispy bread that accompanies the soup. The chicken and leek soup, served in a cup and topped with puff pastry is more to my liking.
Currywurst is a German concoction that has escaped my attention but seeing it listed, I realise my time has come.
I must say, I am pleasantly impressed with a plateful of sliced smoked chicken sausage and curry ketchup generously sprinkled with curry powder and accompanied by some salty gherkins. It's a huge hit in Germany and should satisfy diners looking for an East meets West dining experience.
Continuing the sausage journey, I order the signature sausage paella which is different to what most could be expecting.
Paella is one of the most widely interpreted Spanish dishes so fear not; Chef Logan has gone down the sausage rather than the seafood route.
Traditional seafood paella is offered for the less adventurous. The sausage paella is different but tasty and filled with plump Spanish rice prepared with saffron, chicken bouillon and vegetables.
A dish of 200 grams of artfully plated Australian Wagyu beef is cooked to reddish perfection. The kitchen serves this accompanied by chunky truffle mashed potatoes, roasted vegetables and a garlic cream sauce on the side and while priced at RM99, it's sufficient for two hungry diners to share.
The adjoining table orders a beef burger and I couldn't resist closer inspection, even to join in their Instagramming photographic session.
I admire an interesting looking bun encasing a generous Angus beef topped with a slice of German cheese plus a plate full of fries and salad. Smiles all around suggested it is hitting the mark.
If you're like me, there's a special compartment in your stomach for accommodating dessert regardless of how satiated the rest of you may be.
The #loggytime sign above the kitchen baffles me all night but casting my eyes over the menu, I realise it refers to the chef's signature dessert.
A chocolate 'mess' forms a bed for scoops of white and dark chocolate gelato. Crumbed chocolate, charcoal, salted sugar, cocoa, ganache and housemade honeycomb create a textural wonder that's simply delicious but for those with delicate teeth; the crunchy bits warrant careful negotiation.
FAST FACTS
WURST
15, Ground Floor, Persiaran Ara Kiri, Lucky Garden, Bangsar 59100 Kuala Lumpur.
TEL 03-2201-0609
HOURS Tuesday to Sunday from noon to 10pm.
PAY Wurst prices are not expensive but neither are they a bargain (premium produce rarely is); expect to pay from RM25 to RM35 for starters, soups (RM27), burgers (RM37), mains (RM42 to RM99) and desserts (RM13- RM32).
EAT While the menu offers made-on-the-premises sausages, it also includes several must-have comfort food items but more importantly, a selection of other creative dishes prepared from premium ingredients.
PICK You can't go wrong with the superb 200 grams of cooked-to-perfection Wagyu beef or any of the sausage items (we LOVE the currywurst). The duck bruschetta is tantalising, the soups good, the paella is unique and the #loggytime chocolate dessert is a most Instagrammable dish.
MOOD Interior walls are lined with murals, inspiring retro sounds fill the airways and there's a newly-installed swing at the front that's guaranteed to be used by those wanting to capture the moment on their smartphone.
SERVICE The service is so effortless and slick we hardly noticed it (maybe we were too distracted by the delicious food).
I SAY The menu is evolving, but there are many suitable and creative dishes of modern European inspiration to satisfy impressionable diners. The beverage list is being expanded with imported sodas, a few interesting beers and a compact wine list offered by the glass or bottle (house wines are most agreeable and Argentinean in origin).
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