Singapore’s hawker food centres may attract droves of locals and visitors alike but sometimes the last thing one wants is to jostle with the masses or to eat under fluorescent lights.
If you’re looking to treat your discerning palate to a higher quality of food in a more sophisticated setting, here are three dining destinations to consider on your next visit to the Lion City.
THE CLIFFORD PIER
Once the arrival point of immigrants and seafarers since its opening in 1933, Clifford Pier remains an iconic landmark of where Singapore’s forefathers first landed to begin a new future. Bearing the same name of the former pier, this dining spot occupies the exact same space as part of the Fullerton Bay Hotel, which sits across the reservoir from Marina Bay Sands.
Upon stepping into the hotel’s main entrance, I’m greeted immediately by a shimmering grand chandelier suspended 10 metres above, a perfect way to showcase the lofty expanse of the marbled lobby which doubles as the elegant entrance to the Clifford Pier restaurant.
As with all the other dining venues at Fullerton Bay Hotel, Clifford Pier carries the luxurious touch of award-winning design virtuoso Andre Fu. The exquisite interior alone is worthy of a visit, enriched by the waterfront views. Walking through the spacious venue, it’s impossible to miss the white arched trusses high above, a stunning feature retained from its past, along with overhanging classic-style chandeliers.
Below, heritage also fuses beautifully with modernity, even within the menu that boasts of local traditional cuisine as a way of preserving the pier’s hawker culture from a bygone era albeit with an upscale interpretation.
The likes of char kway teow, prawn laksa and sup kambing can be found among the “heritage” fare while other Asian cuisines are represented under another a la carte section offering popular dishes from Bali, Korea, Vietnam, Thailand, Japan and the Philippines. The Balinese-style spice grilled chicken looks sufficient to feed three people. Nearly a whole chicken is served on a wooden board, alongside Nasi Bakar and Sambal Matah made from diced tomatoes and chillies to provide a spicy kick to the dish.
When combined with the marinated chicken and crunchy rice, all the flavours and textures converge nicely. There’s also salted egg calamari with curry leaves, a flavourful hit enhanced by a mala and chilli salted egg mayo dip.
The menu’s diversity reflects the city’s cosmopolitan culture, providing not only signature Asian delicacies but also catering for Western palates with dishes such as Wagyu beef burger, fish and chips, or crab meat spaghetti. Seeking a light main course, I opt for the subtleties of broiled black cod marinated with miso and sake, a choice that I do not regret.
For a unique twist on vegetarian offerings, Clifford Pier takes inspiration from the Impossible Foods concept that advocates and develops plant-based substitutes for meat and dairy products. The restaurant’s newly introduced Impossible Vegetarian section offers mostly Oriental dishes featuring Impossible Beef. Imagine beef that contains no meat at all yet tastes extraordinarily like beef, with minced texture included but minus the beefy smell. The delicious crispy Chinese pancake filled with Impossible Beef is a very tasty introduction, the dish being reminiscent of beef murtabak.
Fullerton Bay Hotel, 80 Collyer Quay Singapore.
www.fullertonhotels.com/the-fullerton-bay-hotel/the-clifford-pier.html
CULINA AT COMO DEMPSEY
Despite being mere minutes away from Orchard Road, the vibe at Dempsey Hill differs completely. This laidback, leafy locale is known for being a retail and lifestyle destination oozing old world charm, where a cluster of elegant restaurants and shops can be found.
Named after General Sir Miles Christopher Dempsey, a decorated British military soldier, this area is filled with history. It was once the site of a nutmeg plantation in the 19th century before being turned into British army barracks, and then subsequently occupied by the Japanese and much later, National Service boys were housed in the blocks here.
The architectural features of the barracks have been beautifully preserved under Singapore’s conservation guidelines. Besides a sense of nostalgia, there’s an air of casual chic around Dempsey Hill today, but it’s also the kind of place where you might want to bring the credit card.
Within this serene dining and retail enclave lies Culina, a part of the Como Dempsey cluster.
Previously situated in block 8, it recently moved to its new home in block 15 in April this year where it has expanded three-fold to become a 1,394 square metre wonderland for professional chefs, culinary connoisseurs and aspiring gourmands.
Already known as an established purveyor of fine foods and wines in Singapore, Culina pours its expertise into this upgraded dining destination that comprises not only a bistro but also a wine bar counter, a gourmet market and even a famous branded florist from Sydney.
At the main entrance, bear left to discover the assortment of epicurean delicacies from around the world, particularly Europe. Refrigerators and shelves stock everything to satisfy food connoisseurs such as premium cuts of meats and fresh seafood, international cheeses and cold cuts, imported dry goods, fresh fruit and vegetables, freshly baked pastries and premium Asian products.
For dining in, the bistro lies to the right of the entrance, a light French-style interior featuring a black and white palette and contemporary light fixtures. Specialising in Modern European cuisine in addition to offering other choices as well, diners can order from the a la carte menu or enjoy the liberty of choosing from the fresh market section or delicatessen where the likes of fresh oysters, premium beef, fresh fish or a cheese platter can be prepared on the spot and served to your table.
On my table, the appetisers received the thumbs up from my group.
The oysters are incredibly fresh and succulent, though more briny than expected. The soft sourdough bread, fried squid and crab cakes are polished off; however, the French onion and anchovy tart is a little too pungent for our taste buds. Despite my aversion to liver, the creamy foie gras au torchon surprisingly has no hint of it, going down perfectly on toast with fig jam.
From the pasta section, the pappardelle in a rich braised wagyu beef ragu and crabmeat spaghettini in a spicy tomato sauce are satisfying. The spaghettini is generously laden with tender crabmeat, while the beef ragu consists of minced beef, just enough to provide some flavour.
For my mains, the sizeable duck confit delivers the robust flavour that I was hoping for but it’s a struggle to finish. This very meaty dish is served with a haricot bean cassoulet and a sausage, lathered in a rich sauce, prompting me to wish for more vegetables to counter the flavour intensity.
Just when I think that my stomach is closed for the night, a flourless chocolate cake appears on the table, winning over me and my fellow diners with its dark and creamy finesse. For those who prefer a fruitier finale to their meal, the delicious apple tarte tatin presents a tangy yet sweet and flaky combination.
Blk 15 Dempsey Road Singapore.
ELFUEGO BY COLLIN’S
Changi Airport’s sparkling new attraction has much more to offer than just an astounding 40-metre high indoor waterfall and one doesn’t need a boarding pass either to explore this retail and lifestyle hub. Travelling to an airport just for a meal used to be unheard of but the brand new Jewel will surely start to change that perception.
Among the plethora of eateries is Elfuego by Collin’s, the latest restaurant venture by Chef Collin Ho whose eponymous brand is known across the island for serving premium Western fare to the general public at affordable prices.
The brand Elfuego represents a move into the halal market with the restaurant featuring Muslim-friendly contemporary European cuisine such as Hokkaido scallop ceviche, Dutch mussels, baby lamb rack or Angus ribeye. Casually modern yet classy, the outlet exudes a warm ambience, nice for lingering if you don’t have to worry about catching a flight. Otherwise just come earlier.
For appetisers, we try the Sunchoke Soup (essentially an artichoke soup), freshly shucked Irish oysters served with cucumber granita, and tri-colour vegetable fries. The soup delivers an earthy creamy flavour, much like mushroom soup but lighter in taste, garnished with a spoonful of sundried tomatoes and artichoke pieces. Out of the three, the oysters would be my preferred repeat order.
The seafood dishes agree very well with everyone on my table. From the barramundi and the mackerel, to the salmon and the more exotic toothfish, each dish presents succulent flesh and subtle flavours without swimming into bland territory. My empty plate is testimony to just how lovely the well-executed Pan-roasted Toothfish ‘Vongole’ style is which came with White Clams and a very appetising Cod Brandade. Carnivores can enjoy their fill as well with chicken, duck, lamb and premium beef options.
Chocolate lovers will want to leave room for Cacao which is mysteriously described as “Variations of chocolate flavours and textures”. It turns out to be a glossy decadent-looking creation with a dark and smooth filling, cleverly crafted in the shape of a cacao pod.
If choosing the citrusy dessert, beware the rather sour white grapefruit segments. Thankfully the granita component is simply refreshing and the accompanying greek yoghurt sorbet adds a creamy complement to this citrus concoction.
#02-216 Jewel, Changi Airport Singapore.
