The Ibans of Sarawak, once the most feared of the headhunting tribes, are today a peace-loving lot.
The Ibans of Sarawak, once the most feared of the headhunting tribes, are today a peace-loving lot.

KUALA LUMPUR: Just a two-hour flight away from Kuala Lumpur, lies a state like no other in Malaysia, if not the region.

Yes, Sarawak is that special and rare. And that is why it is worth visiting. With its laid-back charm and enchanting beauty, she seduces her visitors with many attractions. The Sarawak Tourism Board’s tagline “More to Discover” couldn’t be more apt as the state’s drawing power is manifold.

Sarawak’s biggest asset is her people, who are known to be genuinely warm and friendly.

The Ibans, once the most feared headhunting tribe, are today a peace-loving lot. Headhunting is a thing of the past, a practice that has been put to rest in the 1800s by the first White Rajah, Sir James Brooke. However, their legend continues to live on, as stories of these Bornean warriors decapitating their enemies and hanging their skulls in longhouses now make fascinating anecdotes for visitors.

The modern Ibans live like other folk — growing crops, rearing pigs and chickens, or working in logging camps and plantations.

Many have also become successful in their own field. One has even carved a name for himself in Hollywood! The lead actor of hit movie Crazy Rich Asians, Henry Ewan Golding, is half-Iban.

If you want to experience the native lifestyle, do visit their longhouses in Batang Ai, Batang Skrang and Batang Lemanak. Each longhouse has between 30 and 50 rooms for up to 100 people.

Even more thrilling is that in those longhouses, not only will you get to experience how the tribesmen live, you may also see the skulls of their vanquished foes passed down by their ancestors!

Sarawak is home to more than 27 ethnic groups, each with its own distinct language, culture and lifestyle. The impressive numbers don’t stop there. The country’s largest state has 37 national parks, 14 nature reserves and five wildlife sanctuaries.

Kaul is celebrated by Melanau fishermen to mark the beginning of the fishing season.
Kaul is celebrated by Melanau fishermen to mark the beginning of the fishing season.

Bako National Park is where you can easily spot the endangered proboscis monkey, while Batang Ai National Park has the highest concentration of orangutan habitats.

But foremost is the Gunung Mulu National Park. The caves of Gunung Mulu have been listed as a United Nations Education, Scientific and Cultural Organisation World Heritage Site.

It houses the world’s largest natural chamber (the Sarawak chamber), the largest cave passage (deer cave) and the longest cave in Southeast Asia (clearwater cave). Much of the cave network, an estimated 70 per cent, has yet to be explored.

If these aren’t already intriguing, be prepared to be amazed by the culinary delights.

From manok pansuh (chicken cooked in bamboo) to mee kolo (Sarawak noodles), and midin (crispy jungle ferns) to umai (a delicacy with slivers of fish and rich sago pearls) and pais ikan (grilled fish in banana leaf), the state’s cuisine is unrivalled. These delicacies can be sampled at the Sarawak Cultural Village in Damai.

A plateau sandstone at Bako National Park.
A plateau sandstone at Bako National Park.

When in Kuching, the state capital, do drop by at Mom’s Laksa or Madam Tang’s for their delicious Sarawak laksa. This dish is so famous that the late celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain once described it as the “breakfast of the Gods”.

Also, don’t forget to try unusual fruits like dabai (which look like olives and taste like avocados), wild mangoes (like coconuts but have sweet-sour taste) and buah tarap, which is related to jackfruit but smells like burnt rubber!

The flesh, however, is heavenly. It’s sweet, soft and creamy, similar to custard apple. Many of these treats will be served to tourists at the 21-day Kuching Food Fair beginning Friday.

This month, the celebration has been continuous. For the first time ever, Sarawak’s top three music and cultural festivals were recently held back to back! 

They were the Rainforest World Music Festival, The Borneo Jazz Festival and the Rainforest Fringe Festival. These top-notch events are organised annually to celebrate music, art and culture.

Sarawak indeed has some of the most unique festivals, thanks to its diverse demographics. The celebrations are endless — from the main Gawai harvest festival to Kaul, celebrated by the Melanau to mark the beginning of the fishing season.

The three-day Pesta Nukanen will take place on Thursday in Bario, Miri. The event marks the food, farming, forest and cultural heritage of the Bario highlands (1,066.8m above sea level) — one of the last traditionally farmed and forested highland watersheds in Malaysia.

Pais ikan (grilled fish in banana leaf) served with condiments during Pesta Nukanen to mark the food, farming, forest and culture of Bario highlands.
Pais ikan (grilled fish in banana leaf) served with condiments during Pesta Nukanen to mark the food, farming, forest and culture of Bario highlands.

During the festivities, one can witness or take part in age-old games and dances.

If the timing is right, you can cap off your day by marvelling at the awesomeness of the Milky Way!

Another must-attend annual event is the 21-day Kuching Festival beginning Friday. This year is even more special as it coincides with the 31st anniversary of the city.

Visitors can expect to be treated to a long list of events, such as cultural performances, concerts, exhibitions, talent contest, garden show and rugby tournament.

Come September, the seaside town of Bintulu will host the 15th edition of the Borneo International Kite Festival.

The five-day event will kick off on Sept 25 at the old Bintulu airport, which faces the South China Sea. It has been acknowledged by the Malaysia Book of Records a few times, the latest in 2014, when 2,500 diamond kites were flown to form a 500m “kite tunnel”.

 The endangered proboscis monkey.
The endangered proboscis monkey.

Yet another highly-acclaimed event is the Sarawak International Dragon Boat Regatta to be held for three days from Oct 25. Twelve countries will be represented this year, with 900 rowers from 29 teams competing in five categories.

With everything that the state has to offer, it’s hardly surprising that domestic tourist arrivals for the first five months were up “13 per cent year-on-year”. 

Whether it’s the people, natural wonders, food or festivals — once you’ve had a taste of Sarawak, literally and figuratively, there will always be more than one reason for you to return!