A visit to the Pearl of the Orient gives Alan Teh Leam Seng the opportunity to explore the island's Christmas-related past and enjoy the festive season at one of the most strategically located hotels in George Town
THE Wembley is easy to pinpoint thanks to its central location right in the heart of George Town. Within shouting distance of the iconic Komtar, this popular hotel looms large in Jalan Magazine, a busy thoroughfare that is also home to numerous quaint pre-war shophouses, as well as a smattering of modern shopping malls that combine potently to help attract tourists to Penang in droves.
While patiently waiting in line to check in, thought quickly returns to a phone call received weeks earlier. A close acquaintance from Seremban made contact suggesting a meetup as he was due in Penang for a series of meetings during the week leading up to Christmas.
The timely proposition was immediately met with open arms as the opportunity to spend a few days in the Pearl of the Orient was too good to pass up.
While lamenting the inability to return home to celebrate the festive period with his loved ones back in the United States, the quinquagenarian, who hails from St. Cloud, took heart that the Covid-19 pandemic-induced travel restrictions had presented the golden opportunity to experience his very first tropical Christmas.
At the same time, I am deeply honoured to be part of his unique experience and cannot wait to prove that Yuletide in Malaysia is just as good, if not better than those celebrated in Minnesota.
ADVENTURE BEGINS
Soon after breezing through the check-in process, my friend appears with a wide grin on his face and expresses admiration at my impeccable timing as he had just wrapped up the last of his appointments.
Although excited at the thought of having the entire afternoon to explore George Town's historic enclave, he bides time marvelling at the lobby area Christmas decorations while I rush upstairs for a much-needed shower and change of attire.
Then just as we are about to hit the streets, rumbling stomachs prompt us to burst out laughing. In our haste, we had completely forgotten about lunch!
Putting the planned sojourn on hold, we head up to Wembley Cafe to pile on the calories. Together with the extensive a la carte menu selections and commanding view of George Town's heritage enclave, the attentive service and clean surroundings of this spacious dining area on Level 2 are, in many ways, better than the coffeeshops lining Magazine Road down below.
Although spoilt for choice, we decide to leave the best selections to savour at leisure in the evening and settle for a quick fix of Nasi Goreng Kampung and Hainanese Chicken Rice.
Food arrives promptly thanks to the chef's accommodative gesture. The generous fried rice portion coupled with premium sides like crispy fish crackers, succulent prawns and well marinated chicken will definitely keep hunger pangs at bay until evening.
The same goes for my friend's choice. Wembley Cafe's version of the dish first created by immigrants from Hainan Island in southern China tastes just as satisfying if not better than the ones sampled before.
Widely accepted as the culinary staple of many Malaysians, the Hainanese Chicken Rice served here comes with generous portions of juicy poached chicken, fragrant steamed rice, chilli sauce, cucumber garnishes and a delicious bowl of piping hot soup.
ICONIC LANDMARK
Tracing the quaint George Town backstreets in a north-easterly direction, we soon arrive at St George's Church, the oldest purpose-built Anglican place of worship in Southeast Asia.
Said to mirror the Madras St. George's Cathedral in terms of its Neo-Classical, Georgian and English Palladian architectural styles, this iconic Penang landmark was built entirely by Indian convict labour using brick and lime mortar on a solid plastered stone base acquired from the hills of Penang, which was known then as the Prince of Wales Island.
The solitary Senegal mahogany that still stands majestically in the front section today reminds visitors of the vast shipment of trees brought in from India in 1816 to provide support for the building's imposing Grecian columns.
The church was completed two years later, just in time for Reverend Henderson to officiate its first Christmas service.
After looking across Lebuh Farquhar to marvel at the historic Kompleks Mahkamah Pulau Pinang, our sights eventually return to the church compound. There, sheltering under the mahogany tree is an eye-catching memorial pavilion built during the 1886 Penang centenary celebrations in memory of Captain Francis Light.
Over the years, St. George's Church has witnessed countless marriages and memorials for key Penang personalities. One of the more interesting tributes remembered to this very day concerns Governor Robert Fullerton's wife, Harriet, who was a very uncompromising and exacting employer during her lifetime.
General disdain was so great that upon her passing in 1830, the entire household staff swore to curse her grave and never let her rest in peace.
The threat shook Fullerton to the core. Unknown to many, he held a mock funeral ceremony for his wife at the Protestant Cemetery that was attended by prominent residents in the settlement. The coffin buried that day was devoid of Harriet's body.
Under the cloak of darkness later that same night, St George's Church became venue of a secret burial where a coffin bearing Harriet's body was lowered into a hole dug in the chancel floor. Rumour has it that the service was witnessed only by Fullerton, who sailed back to England soon after and died a year later.
WORLD HERITAGE CHURCH
Excited to no end by the intriguing tale, we reluctantly leave the church that was declared one of Malaysia's 50 National Treasures in 2007 and walk just a few more steps down Lebuh Farquhar to reach the third oldest Roman Catholic Church in Malaysia.
The Church of the Assumption was built in 1786, making it the oldest Roman Catholic place of worship in Penang. Constructed to commemorate the feast of the Assumption of The Blessed Mary held that year, the early rudimentary structure went through a series of improvements over the next century until the crucifix-shaped building seen today became reality. The only time the purpose-made bells in the twin imposing towers fell silent was during the Japanese Occupation.
The clappers struck with vigour barely a week before Christmas 1941 to warn the locals of impending danger as the Japanese Imperial Army marched into George Town.
The occupiers were so annoyed by the deafening peals that an exasperated officer intruded upon the sanctity of the building to slash the bell ropes with his samurai sword and forbade repairs on pain of death.
This quintessential monument and its remarkable history received just recognition when it was named World Heritage Church in 2008 after the inclusion of George Town and Melaka as Unesco World Heritage Sites.
Along the way back, we manage to find time to make a brief stop at the Protestant Cemetery located close to the junction of Lebuh Farquhar and Jalan Penang.
Shielded under the shade of flourishing frangipani groves are final resting places of many early Penang residents, including those of Light and four colonial governors. Attempts to locate Harriet's tombstone, however, prove futile.
It is already early evening by the time we reach The Wembley. The return route along Jalan Penang turns out to be delightfully slow as there is so much to see and admire.
The festive mood is definitely in the air with countless shopfronts decked to the hilt with attractive Christmas-themed displays that are almost certain to attract even the most stubborn of shoppers to take advantage of various year-end sales and promotions.
Even vendors at the usually conservative Chowrasta Market are doing their part to spread the festive cheer by playing popular Yuletide songs at full volume.
YULETIDE CHEER TO ALL
The Executive Lounge on Level 30 offers immediate respite for our weary feet. Arriving just in time for evening cocktails, we tuck into a generous selection of canapes and snacks while witnessing the stunning sunset over the distant Ayer Itam hills.
Gradually, daylight begins to ebb and, in its stead, illumination is replaced by a myriad of dazzling neon lights that turn the city landscape down below into a mesmerising wonderland, no different from the Christmas tree decked section near our table.
With time to spare before dinner, we grab the opportunity to head down to the infinity swimming pool at Level 11. The therapeutic effect of the water is such a treat as all remnants of fatigue immediately slip away into oblivion, leaving us rejuvenated and ready for a truly sumptuous dinner.
At that moment, a sudden brainwave inspires a plan to dine in privacy by way of room service. Apart from the opportunity to chat and laugh without fear of disturbing the other diners at Wembley Cafe, this novel idea also presents opportune moments for my friend to catch up with loved ones in Minnesota via video calls.
We are spoilt for choice by The Wembley's extensive in-room dining menu. Sticking to a tropical Christmas theme, we finally settle on a mouthwatering spread made up predominantly of Malaysian favourites.
Between mouthfuls of savoury chicken and beef satay, seafood aglio olio, chicken cordon bleu and an extra generous portion of ice kacang, we spend the remainder of the evening regaling each other with tales of past Christmases.
As the hours passed, it becomes obvious that there are vast similarities between the festive season celebrated here and the one observed on the other side of the world. We toast the night away, warmed by thoughts of peace on earth and goodwill towards everyone during this memorable holiday period.
FAST FACTS
The Wembley — A St Giles Hotel
183, Magazine Road, 10300 George Town, Penang
TEL 04-259 8000
FAX 04-264 3388
EMAIL [email protected]
WEBSITE www.stgileshotels.com/hotels/malaysia/penang/stgiles-wembley
STAY With 415 rooms that cater to both business and leisure travellers, guests can choose from five different room types, ranging from Executive Suite and Executive Deluxe to Executive Superior, Deluxe and Superior.
EAT Three outlets: the all-day dining outlet Wembley Cafe, contemporary Lobby Lounge and vibrant DSRT Sky Room.
DO After enjoying the Christmas decorations and delectable food, find time to sweat it out at the well-equipped gymnasium or enjoy a relaxing swim at the infinity pool.
GO With George Town's heritage enclave right on the doorstep and everything just a short walk away, it makes perfect sense to explore the city at leisure on foot.
HIGHS Strategic location and excellent service.
LOWS Complimentary WiFi is limited to only four devices per room. Tactful allocations will ensure that everyone has equal usage time.
Enjoy a relaxing stay with reasonable rates with Agoda Promo Code when you visit Penang.
