The historic Hammam Al-Samra, Gaza’s only remaining active traditional Turkish bath, pictured in 2005 (left) and in the aftermath of an Israeli strike on Jan 5. - AFP PIC
The historic Hammam Al-Samra, Gaza’s only remaining active traditional Turkish bath, pictured in 2005 (left) and in the aftermath of an Israeli strike on Jan 5. - AFP PIC

GAZA'S ancient Greek site of Anthedon has been bombed, its "Napoleon's Palace" destroyed and the only private museum burned down: the war has taken a terrible toll on the rich heritage of the Palestinian territory.

But in a strange twist of fate, some of its greatest historical treasures are safe in a warehouse in Switzerland. And ironically, it is all thanks to the blockade that made life in the Gaza Strip such a struggle for the past 16 years.

Based on satellite images, the United Nations' cultural organisation reckons some 41 historic sites have been damaged since Israel began pounding the besieged territory after the Oct 7 Hamas attack.

On the ground, Palestinian archaeologist Fadel al-Otol keeps tabs on the destruction. When he has electricity and Internet access, photos pour into a WhatsApp group he set up with 40 or so young peers he mobilised to watch over the territory's vast array of ancient sites and monuments.

As a teenager in the 1990s, Otol was hired by European archaeological missions before going on to study in Switzerland and at the Louvre Museum in Paris.

"All the archaeological remains in the north have been hit," he told AFP by phone from Gaza. In the Oct 7 Hamas attack on Israel, 1,170 people were killed, according to an AFP tally of Israeli official figures.

Almost 34,000 have died in Gaza in unrelenting Israeli retaliation, according to the territory's health ministry. The damage to Gaza's history has also been immense.

"Blakhiya (the ancient Greek city of Anthedon) was directly bombed. There's a huge hole", said Otol. He said part of the site, near a Hamas barracks where "we hadn't started excavating", was hit.

The 13th-century Al-Basha palace in Gaza City's old town "has been completely destroyed. There was bombing and (then) it was bulldozed.

"It held hundreds of ancient objects and magnificent sarcophagi," Otol added as he shared recent photos of the ruins. Napoleon is said to have based himself in the ochre stone edifice at the disastrous end of his Egyptian campaign in 1799.

The room where the French emperor supposedly slept was full of Byzantine artefacts.

"Our best finds were displayed in the Basha," Jean-Baptiste Humbert of the French Biblical and Archaeological School in Jerusalem (EBAF) told AFP.

But we know little of their fate, he said. "Did someone remove the objects before blowing the building up?"

Nerves were frayed even further when the director of Israeli Antiquities, Eli Escusido, posted a video on Instagram of Israeli soldiers surrounded by vases and ancient pottery in the EBAF warehouse in Gaza City.

Much of what has been unearthed in digs in Gaza was stored either at the Al-Basha museum or the warehouse. Palestinians quickly accused the army of pillaging. But EBAF archaeologist Rene Elter said he has seen no evidence of "state looting".

"My colleagues were able to return to the site. The soldiers opened boxes. We don't know if they took anything," he told AFP.

Archaeology is a highly political issue in Israel and the Palestinian territories, with discoveries often used to justify the claims of the two warring peoples.

While Israel has an army of archaeologists who have unearthed an impressive number of ancient treasures, Gaza remains relatively untouched by the trowel despite a rich past stretching back thousands of years.

The only sheltered natural harbour between the Sinai and Lebanon, Gaza has been for centuries a crossroads of civilisations. A pivot point between Africa and Asia and a hub of the incense trade, it was coveted by the Egyptians, Persians, Greeks, Romans and Ottomans.

A key figure in excavating this glorious past over the last few decades has been Jawdat Khoudary, a Gazan construction magnate and collector.

Gaza, with its "seafront real estate", had a property boom in the 1990s after the Oslo peace accords and the creation of the Palestinian Authority.

When building workers dug up the soil, they came across lots and lots of ancient objects. Khoudary amassed a treasure trove of artefacts that he opened up to foreign archaeologists.


The writer is from Agence France-Presse

The views expressed in this article are the author's own and do not necessarily reflect those of the New Straits Times