AS I gaze at the vacant seat next to me during my flight, a whirlwind of emotions washes over me. I try desperately to maintain my composure as I dejectedly contemplate how I'm going to survive an unfamiliar land for five days… alone!
The trip to Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, has originally been planned as a buddy trip, but as it turns out, my travel companion had to withdraw just days before due to a duty call. But my sense of apprehension turns to exhilaration the moment the shimmering coastline comes into view, and the plane begins its descent to Sabah's capital.
With renewed enthusiasm, I promise myself to make the most of every moment in this trip.
CENTRAL BASE FOR EXPLORATION
I've booked a hotel near Warisan Square, which is right in the heart of Kota Kinabalu. Being alone means that there's no bill-splitting. So, instead of renting a car to get around, I decide to use e-hailing services, which is less costly.
Furthermore, the hotel's strategic location makes it ideal as many attractions are within walking distance. For example, it's an easy stroll to Gaya Street, a unique Sunday market offering a plethora of items — from souvenirs to pets, flowers and local coffee.
"We have a house full of skulls!" exclaims a woman in traditional Kadazandusun attire whom I came across during my stroll. She's here to introduce visitors to the Monsopiad Heritage Village, a traditional Kadazandusun village established to commemorate the legendary head-hunting warrior whom it was named after.
One of the most intriguing attractions is the House of Skulls, which showcases 42 heads collected by Monsopiad himself after vanquishing his foes, besides a human femur suspended in the centre of the building. These are not only trophies, but also a brutal warning to potential troublemakers looking to harm his village.
The Monsopiad Heritage Village offers an immersive experience in the traditions and ancient culture of the Sabah's Kadazandusun and Murut natives, such as their meticulous harvesting of rice and the brewing of rice wine.
Visitors have the unique opportunity to experience and discover their way of life, which includes hunting using the monopuk (blowpipe) and catapults, as well as the art of fire-making.
"Kadazandusun men are expected to be good at using the blowpipe to hunt, while women must be able to make a fire in order to prepare food for the family. Otherwise, they can't get married," explains my guide.
Those with an adventurous palate can sample sago dishes, a traditional delicacy cherished by the Kadazandusun. Additionally, there are cultural performances where visitors get the chance to join in the Kadazandusun's traditional Sumazau and the Murut's Magunatip dances.
EXPLORING HIDDEN GEMS
I'm not exactly the most skilled of trip planners. My plan is pretty simple. On the list? Island-hopping. As I'm waiting for my ride, I find myself striking up a conversation with some of the locals, half hoping that they'll be able to offer me some suggestions on where to explore during my holiday here.
"Kak, if you want to catch a breathtaking sunset, head over to Bukit Kokol or Tanjung Aru," someone advised.
Bukit Kokol, as I duly discover, is a little far; however, Tanjung Aru seems the best idea, being just a 20-minute ride away. So, without hesitation, I book a trip to Tanjung Aru first.
It's 4pm when I arrive, which means I have ample time to walk around and explore the area. I buy some keropok lekor from one of the stalls before beginning to scout for the best spot to enjoy the view.
Here's a tip for visitors from the peninsula: sunset in Sabah is quite early at around 6 pm, so be sure to arrive by 5pm!
The harmonious blend of various shades of blue, white and orange is nothing short of magical. As I bask in the glory of the scene before me, I think to myself it's no surprise that many travel websites have ranked Kota Kinabalu as one of the top destinations for sunset watching.
Bukit Kokol, as I learned on the next trip, is another remarkable place for sunset-viewing. Situated on one of the highest viewpoints near the city (800m above sea level), it presents a panoramic view of the state capital.
Besides picturesque sunsets, it's also known for its stunning resorts, refreshing mountain breeze and clear blue skies. I'm sure Instagrammers would find plenty of Insta-worthy locations to capture here.
UNDERWATER PLAYTIME
An approximate 20-minute walk from my hotel is the Jesselton Point Ferry Terminal — the gateway to a paradise of islands of the coast of Kota Kinabalu. Excitedly, I decided to sign up for a three-island hopping adventure to Pulau Manukan, Pulau Mamutik and Pulau Sapi, all in a package costing just RM55.
The adventure commences with a boat ride from the jetty to the enchanting islands. The boat will stop at each island for two hours and everyone on board can explore their surroundings. There's plenty to do — sunbathing, snorkelling, parasailing, banana boat rides and you can even try "sea-walking".
The emerald green waters surrounding these islands teem with fish that are unafraid to swim up to you; some will even playfully nip at your legs to get your attention. Their charming antics, combined with the exploration of stunning corals, provides a memorable marine experience.
With so many things to see and do, the two-hour recreation time on each island passes like the blink of an eye.
A word of caution: Do tread carefully, especially near the seabed to avoid stepping on sea urchins with sharp spines. I was advised to keep my feet up and stay afloat!
UP CLOSE IN UNDERWATER WORLD
Pulau Manukan presents a unique opportunity to try the underwater "sea walk" — an alternative for non-divers to get up close with the underwater world.
There is a special helmet weighing around 40 kilogrammes for visitors to wear. Air is pumped into the helmet as the wearer descends into the sea at a depth of around four metres.
But don't worry, once you're in the water, you'll hardly feel the weight. It's also crucial to fasten the helmet correctly to prevent water from entering.
I had a scary moment when seawater suddenly burst into my helmet, but the professional divers nearby were quick to assist, both in removing the water and keeping me calm.
You're given around 15 minutes to explore the seabed and its vast coral ecosystem. The waters are quite pristine and with all the colourful marine life coexisting at the same spot, it's definitely a sight to behold — and never to be missed!
SEAFOOD HEAVEN
It's a five-minute walk from my hotel to the Todak Seafood Hawker Centre, reputed to be a paradise for seafood enthusiasts. Here, you get the chance to savour favourite local dishes at affordable prices. Think RM80 for a medium-sized lobster!
It's the perfect place to unwind every evening after a full day exploring Kota Kinabalu. A word of caution though: When selecting seafood, you have to be discerning. This is based on a personal experience when I unintentionally selected less-than-fresh seafood. Fortunately, the seller promptly addressed the issue, and I was even offered a discount.
LEAP OF FAITH
Despite my initial jitters, the Sabahan welcome and hospitality quickly put me at ease.
I recall nervously approaching a stern-looking gentleman to ask for directions, and he advised confidently: "Just keep going straight, all the way to the end. Then ask the people up ahead. They'll help you!" And guess what? They did! I wasn't ignored even once.
The locals are incredibly helpful and eager to share their knowledge and pride of their state. Throughout my stay in Kota Kinabalu, I only took rides to three specific locations otherwise, I was walking all the way.
While I tried to remain cautious at all times, I did feel safe, thanks to the many friendly locals who either accompanied me halfway to ensure that I found what I was looking for, or offered clear guidance along the way.
As a woman, the idea of embarking on a solo journey has never crossed my mind. It's just too scary. But having done this trip, I'm happy that I took the leap. And this is definitely not going to be my last trip!
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