Bookxcess at Gardens Mall houses a hidden gem of a restaurant.
Bookxcess at Gardens Mall houses a hidden gem of a restaurant.

"WE are competing with 300 other outlets here, so we really need to stand out," says the affable Chef Tan Chun Liang matter-of-factly when my dinner buddies pointed out just how creative his dishes on the menu are.

His expression earnest, Tan's words ring true especially when you consider that his cool bookstore restaurant, Red Red Botak Head (RRBH), is nestled unobtrusively in the recesses of Bookxcess on the rooftop of The Gardens Mall, Kuala Lumpur.

It's a section of the mall that doesn't ordinarily receive much foot traffic as it is not located along the usual shopping trail, besides being on the highest floor of the mall.

 Interior of the restaurant with a view of surrounding office towers.
Interior of the restaurant with a view of surrounding office towers.

The name of this quirky local restaurant is inspired by a well-loved, classic playground ditty rhyme. And interestingly enough, the friendly proprietor himself, who previously helmed the former Whup Whup Restaurant in Subang Jaya, happens to be bald!

Just like its playful name, the menu here, I duly discover, is just as interesting.

CREATIVE FLAVOURS

 RRBH salad with fresh tuna.
RRBH salad with fresh tuna.

Opting to kick off with something a little healthy, we order the RRBH salads drizzled with chilli lime dressing. The dressing is a nice mild blend of spicy and sourness, which lends a fresh tangy twist to the vegetables.

It can go together with a choice of grilled chicken or tuna.

I was pleasantly surprised by the latter, initially thinking that we'd be served flaky morsels from an off-the-shelf can. Instead, the "real" pan-seared piece of fresh tuna arrived on a plate adorned with salad leaves, sliced king oyster mushrooms and cherry tomatoes.

 The rich and flavourful unagi laksa.
The rich and flavourful unagi laksa.

With the hearty unagi laksa being one of the restaurant's signature dishes, we have to give that a try. Soon, a steaming bowl of angel hair pasta in thick rich seafood bisque broth, complete with condiments and a decent slice of unagi, arrives on our table.

Rich in flavour, it's certainly a dish that will go down well with lovers of seafood.

 The CCF lasagna with an interesting Asian twist.
The CCF lasagna with an interesting Asian twist.

The CCF lasagna is next. Funnily enough, there are no sheets of the pasta in sight — instead, the lasagna is replaced by Chinese rice sheets (chee cheong fun), artfully interlaced with pistou bechamel, potato, aubergine, pickled lettuce and duxelle mushrooms.

It's slightly bland, so for those who like it salty, you may need to reach for the salt-shaker from time to time. However, this dish got extra points from me for its creative Asian touch to a classic pasta dish.

WHIMSICAL DELIGHTS

 The spiced buttermilk fried chicken is both crispy and zesty.
The spiced buttermilk fried chicken is both crispy and zesty.

My personal favourite has to be the spiced buttermilk fried chicken, served with two sauces, one being chili and the other, a house recipe that looks neon pink. The tell-tale seeds in the pink sauce indicate dragonfruit as a key ingredient. There's also a hint of sweetness lacing the otherwise savoury sauce.

 Starting with the RBBH salad with grilled chicken, a Dirty Carol (left) and Charmillionaire.
Starting with the RBBH salad with grilled chicken, a Dirty Carol (left) and Charmillionaire.

The dishes are not the only ones with unique names. The drinks too receive Tan's touches of whimsicalness. There's the chilled coffee (not iced) named "Dirty Latte" and "Dirty Carol", which is essentially chilled coffee with a hint of caramel. The refreshing "Charmillionaire" — a delicious blend of camomile, yuzu and honey served with ice — is also worth mentioning.

Fully satiated, it's soon time to leave for our next appointment. Suffice to say, it's definitely worth returning to this lovely eatery with its lively ambiance and fun selection of creative dishes — in ingredients and in name.

As I gather my things, I can't help thinking that sometimes, it's worth walking the extra mile (to the rooftop of The Gardens Mall, in this case) to taste the better side of things!

Red Red Botak Head Restaurant

Where: Roof Top Floor (Level 6), The Gardens Mall, RT-1, Lingkaran Syed Putra, Mid Valley City, Kuala Lumpur.

Operating hours: 10am to 10pm (daily)