WHILE heading north to escape the madding crowd of out-of-towners converging on my hometown for the Lunar New Year, Perlis quickly comes across as a tranquil oasis of scenic calm where things move at a more manageable pace.
Despite its inferiority in terms of size, Malaysia's northernmost state overflows with rich heritage, vibrant traditions and friendly residents who deeply cherish their past while openly embracing modern trends.
The latter is evident almost everywhere with new electric cars jostling for space on the roads with dated petrol-guzzling vehicles and modern cafes making inroads in places where traditional coffee shops once reigned supreme.
HISTORICAL REPOSITORY
The ongoing Visit Perlis Year 2024/2025 makes this sojourn all the more compelling and the best place to start is Muzium Kota Kayang.
Set against forest-clad limestone hills, this historical repository has six galleries housed in a traditional Malay architecturally inspired single-storey complex as well as additional outdoor display areas.
Starting with ancient archaeological discoveries, the displays serve as a time machine which takes visitors through centuries of intriguing local history.
A substantial exhibit of weapons and porcelain shards uncovered when the museum was constructed in 1999 lends weight to the theory that there was already a thriving society with international trade relations in Perlis more than 600 years ago.
A large fort, which lends its name to the museum, existed here during the 17th century.
The bastion, backed by the insurmountable hills in the southern perimeter and high mud walls with a wide moat on the other sides, protected the palace within. During troubled times, the royal family sought refuge in the hills until the all-clear signal was given.
EXEMPLARY RULER
Extending the ruling lineage since the time Perlis seceded from Kedah in 1843, the Royal gallery traces the achievements of each ruler who ascended the throne after the Siamese installed Syed Hussein Jamalullail as the first Perlis Raja.
The reign of Raja Syed Alwi Jamalullail was especially notable as it saw Perlis' transition from a Siamese vassal state to British rule following the 1909 Bangkok Treaty.
Landmarks lending proof to Raja Syed Alwi's exceptional leadership and remarkable vision can still be seen in the capital Kangar as well as the Arau royal town.
Determined to modernise his administration, Raja Syed Alwi constructed Istana Arau not long after ascending the throne in 1905.
A stately building, the palace spearheaded many advances seen in the state and remained the official residence of subsequent rulers until Tuanku Syed Harun Putra Jamalullail moved to Istana Kenangan Indah Repoh in Kangar not long after becoming raja in December 1945.
Today, Istana Arau serves as a venue for investitures and formal state banquets.
MODERN DINING OPTION
On the way to Kangar, a brief lunch stop at Caffe Diem Jejawi showcases Perlis' success in embracing modern dining options.
Recently opened and already gaining rave reviews from locals as well as tourists, the cafe serves as a third option for people to relax, socialise and build networks apart from their homes and workplaces.
Colonial-era monuments in Kangar built during Raja Syed Alwi's reign include the Clock Tower Building and Masjid Alwi. Located in Persiaran Tun Razak, the former created history after calling time on British rule as the Union Jack was lowered at the stroke of midnight on Aug 31, 1957.
Built in 1933, Masjid Alwi remains one of the most beautiful functional heritage buildings in Perlis today. Said to be designed after Penang's Masjid Kapitan Keling, its flawless architecture is attributed to the use of the Chettinad egg plaster technique which uses plaster, egg white and sand.
On the way back to Arau for a well-earned rest at the recently opened All In Hotel, the sight of the imposing Bunga Mas monument calls to mind the time when Perlis, together with Terengganu, Kelantan, Kedah, Perlis, Pattani, Nong Chik, Yala and Setul, used to send gifts, including two small trees made of pure gold and silver, large weapon caches, expensive goods and numerous slaves once every three years as vassal-state tributes to Bangkok.
Much has changed over the years and Perlis today is a modern and progressive state which has plenty to offer for both leisure and business travellers.
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