The charming Penang House. Pictures by Zalina Mohd Som.
The charming Penang House. Pictures by Zalina Mohd Som.

Temple Tree Resort is a charming village of its own.
Temple Tree Resort is a charming village of its own.

Temple Tree Resort has literally rebuilt a 'village' of old houses from across the country on a sweet spot in Langkawi.

THE cold wooden floor thumps underneath my feet as I half-jump out of the plush and thick duvet of my king-sized bed in a dash to stop the alarm of my handphone.

I purposely put the phone far away, on a bench near the room door, to force myself to get out of bed and turn it off so I do not slip back into slumberland.

I know it is going to be difficult to peel myself out of this cosy bed, to leave the embrace of its satin-smooth cotton sheets and plush duvet.

But I didn't expect the alarm to ring so loud and neither did I expect the morning to be this quiet.

It's 15 minutes past five and I hear nothing but the soft swooshing of the ceiling fan that swirls at the highest speed.

But nothing else comes in from beyond the walls of my room. Not a sound of the passing vehicles, not even a croaking frog or chirping cricket, though once in a while I can hear the rustling leaves on trees as the wind blows by.

The only thing that comes through the framed louvre windows is the garden light. That and the light from the bathroom across the foyer that penetrates the lattice panel sitting between the walls of my room and the roof.

After adjusting my eyes, for a while, to the dimness of my room, I walk to the door. The floor creaks. I pull open the door and the creak gets even louder.

The cosy and homely living space of Penang Suite 2. The doors connect to Penang Suite 1, which allows Penang House to be rented as a whole.
The cosy and homely living space of Penang Suite 2. The doors connect to Penang Suite 1, which allows Penang House to be rented as a whole.

"Shhh... you wouldn't want to wake up everyone else," I say to myself as I remember that there is another unit just beyond the wall that cuts across the living room of my suite.

I gingerly tip-toe to the bathroom but the floor still creaks even as I try to tread as lightly as possible.

"Ahh, you are just heavy!" I grunt to myself quietly.

I push open the bathroom doors and hear the voice of a man reciting the Quran. However, that voice sounds like a recording and it's loud, like it's coming from a loudspeaker.

Startled at first, I quickly realise that it is only the trahim, a Quranic verse that is usually read before subuh prayers. I believe that it is coming from a surau or mosque nearby.

The sound of the trahim, the creaking floors and doors, and the smell of old wood remind me of my grandfather's ageing house in Banting, Selangor.

But as I set my eyes on the well-equipped, luxurious bathroom, I am immediately transported back to where I am — in the rustic interior of the Penang 2 suite, the second unit of the Penang House, which is one of eight restored heritage houses that make up the Temple Tree Resort in Pantai Cenang, Langkawi.

You can have the whole Negri Sembilan House to yourself.
You can have the whole Negri Sembilan House to yourself.

THE COLLECTION

On a piece of paper in a box file that contains the resort's fact sheet, it is written: "Originally situated next to busy Gurney Drive in Penang, this house was built in the early 1930s by a Chinese contractor. It was very typical of its time."

My house — eh sorry, Penang House, it says, still dons its original exterior colours — green and white, and white with turquoise shutters and touches of raspberry and lime green inside.

It also retains the original entrances, which now are the entry doors for the two suites it houses. My 60-square-metre suite has its entrance facing the lawn and access road. The other faces the pool garden.

These units are divided by a wall with a connecting door that separates the living room into two sections. I like to believe that my suite has the bigger living space.

While both have the same features — two rooms, a small foyer, a living room and an ensuite bathroom — they are not identical.

In fact, none of the rooms and suites in all the resort's rooms and suits — all 21 of them — are identical. Not in their size, layout and interior design. Even the furniture is different.

Each house — Penang, Johor, Negri Sembilan, Ipoh, Colonial, Estate, Plantation and Straits — has its own character and architectural charm worthy of its history and origin.

Interestingly, these houses, between 80 and 100 years old, were originally built out of Langkawi — in Penang, Johor, Perak and Negri Sembilan. Each has been carefully dismantled piece by piece and rebuilt here in Langkawi all at once.

The bathrooms in Temple Tree Resort are beautifully designed and equipped with luxury amenities.
The bathrooms in Temple Tree Resort are beautifully designed and equipped with luxury amenities.

"It took two years to restore them back to their original structures," says resort manager Irene Vairo. "But of course, some of them underwent minor changes to suit the resort's needs."

Each house — including the suites and rooms — is tastefully redesigned and fitted with modern hotel amenities that lift it up from an old, humble residence to a luxurious resort stay.

So, how do we know which room or suite is suitable for us and our entourage?

"We usually walk our first-time guests through each room and suite while they look at the photos and details on our website. And from there, we advise which one is suitable for them," Irene says.

But what if, once we're here and we want to stay in a different house? "Of course you can," she says, continuing: "...provided that the room is available and you're okay with the rates."

Unlike other resorts or hotels, Temple Tree Resort has different rates for different rooms and suites, and the Straits and Negri Sembilan Houses are rated by the whole house.

"So, which house is your favourite?" asks Irene. Honestly, I can't really tell. I like Penang House because it is "my house", but I also like Negri Sembilan House for its traditional Malay architecture and colourful stained-glass windows.

Colonial House is also charming with its little dainty ornaments on the walls, pillars and floor, and Straits House stands like a grand old mansion with its opulent Eurasian setting.

Then, there's the majestic, intricately decked-up Johor House, the spacious, high-ceiling rooms of the Estate House and the grand double-storey Plantation House. And last but not least, the imposing Ipoh House, with its beautiful Malay-style roof and its arched windows.

The high-ceiling room of the Estate House.
The high-ceiling room of the Estate House.

THE LAND

This small "village" of restored heritage houses couldn't have the perfect address than where it is now. Or is it the other way around?

Temple Tree Resort sits in the short, quiet inner road that ends at the Cenang Ferry Terminal, a departure point to Rebak Island. It is about 100m away from the busy Jalan Kuala Muda that connects Pantai Cenang and the Langkawi International Airport.

The inner road is dotted with a handful of independent chalets and resorts — some abandoned and dilapidated — on one side, and on the other side is a huge piece of reclaimed land that has become a swamp.

The inner road is usually plied by vehicles heading to the ferry terminal, which also has a row of stalls selling seafood delicacies, or pulling into the driveway of Temple Tree.

But most of the time, the road is quiet and tranquil, and safe enough for a huge family of monkeys to roam and a flock of hornbills to claim a huge tree as its home.

When the road becomes even quieter and dark at night, the bright lights and mood-inducing music from Temple Tree Resort will fill up the air until it is time to call it a night.

It then goes back into a tranquil and peaceful mood that allows this charming little resort to blend well with its neighbours, a fishing village and a padi-farming village across the main road.

You can have the whole Negri Sembilan House to yourself.
You can have the whole Negri Sembilan House to yourself.

FAST FACTS

Temple Tree Resort

Lot 1053, Jalan Pantai Cenang

Langkawi 07000

Kedah

TEL 017-599 5935

EMAIL [email protected]

WEBSITE www.templetree.com.my

STAY From eight beautifully restored heritage houses, Temple Tree Resort offers 21 suites and rooms. The houses are:

Straits House: A 90-year-old Eurasian house originally from Penang and is probably the most opulent of them all, with its own gated lawn, a private pool and lush garden, suitable for outdoor dining with an on-site chef.

Johor House: This pretty double-storey pink house is originally a Chinese farmhouse with Taiwanese influence in its design. It was originally built in Batu Pahat, Johor.

Colonial House: Built by an Arabian goldsmith in the 1920s, this grand house used to stand proud in George Town, Penang, and boasts a rich mixture of East and West designs, with its Peranakan floor tiles and intricate European cornices.

Estate House: A long single-story building, this house is a typical plantation estate lodging of the early and mid-20th century, with terracotta floors, white walls, thick wooden beams and high ceiling. It was originally built in Ipoh, Perak.

Plantation House: The oldest in Temple Tree Resort's collection, this grand two-storey house, built in the 1900s in Penang, belonged to a Chinese family who owned a durian orchard. It comes with a little courtyard, which is a typical feature of a Chinese house of its time.

Penang House: With an architecture reflecting the 131 years of British influence in Penang, the house features a unique marriage of local, Chinese, Indian and Islamic elements in its design.

Negri Sembilan House: Once a family home in Mantin, Negri Sembilan, this raised single-storey house is now a luxurious suite with beautiful stained-glass windows and a spacious front veranda.

Ipoh House: Built in Perak, the 120-year-old bungalow is still in its original colours and retains its Indonesian influence. It houses the resort's one and only restaurant, a reception lounge and its office.

EAT There is only one F&B outlet. During the day, the second part of Ipoh House takes on a chic restaurant vibe that serves daily breakfast buffet and a la carte menu, and at night, it turns into a cool bar to wind down. Must try: its Nasi Lemak OTT (Over The Top) and high-tea set.

DO Nothing. It's simply blissful. But if you must do something, there are two swimming pools and free bicycles for you to ride around the area.

GO Pantai Cenang is less than 2km away, but if you don't want to venture further from the resort, take a stroll along the neighbouring fishing village. Or if you fancy something more extravagant, book a sunset cruise with the resort's "All-in" catamaran that departs from Telaga Harbour.

VERDICT

HIGHS The whole concept of the resort — the individually themed heritage houses, the fancy and delicious Michelin-standard food and super-friendly and attentive staff. It is heartwarming to note the staff members remembering small details like how you like your water and coffee served!

LOWS Now, if only there is a spa!

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