WHEN French fashion house Balmain released its Fall 2012 line, Sharifah Nurul Afzan Jamalullail fell in love with the entire collection, especially the long, beaded blazer dress.
"It was such a statement piece. But it retailed at around US$30,000, which of course, was totally out of my budget. And then H&M came up with a much more affordable toned-down version, but I couldn't get my hands on it because, as expected, it sold out immediately," she recalls.
So, for years she was just pondering on how amazing it would be if she could just come up with her own brand of embellished blazers, but at a palatable price.
"I never pursued it because I was busy with other things, but it was always at the back of my mind. Fast forward to February this year, I decided to just take the plunge and dive in head first. I am fully aware that I am not a "designer" and I am not claiming to be, but I know what I likeand I know what I want,"
By September, Bia, a slow fashion artisanal label specialising in made-to-order hand-embellished garments was born.
LOCKDOWN LABEL
Starting the brand, Sharifah Nurul Afzan remembers, was tough during a worldwide pandemic.
"Lockdown after lockdown, it was a non-stop battle. My factory is overseas and I am actually very proud to say that I built this entire brand over Whatsapp. I have not met a single person that I am dealing with."
Another hurdle is that she did not study fashion design, so she can't really draw.
"Before production can even begin, you need to submit tech packs to the factory. These are technical drawings that outline every single little construction detail. It's like a blueprint that contains all the components and instructions required for a manufacturer to turn your design into a finished product."
Through her research, she managed to find an online marketplace for freelance services and connected with a few different technical designers from all over the world, who she hired to do the tech packs for her.
"For every challenge, there is always a solution if you are willing to put in the work. We are lucky to be living in a world where all answers are available to us at our fingertips 24/7, but only if you are willing to persevere."
SENSE OF STRENGTH
When Sharifah Nurul Afzan finally got her sample design, the initial response from her friends was, of course, the obvious "oh it looks like Balmain".
"Yes, I fully agree that it does, because that's where I got the inspiration from. But a lot of people don't realise that Olivier Rousteing (Balmain's designer) didn't invent the concept of pearl embellishments – this is an art that has been practised for hundreds of years and most visibly evident in Indian sarees," she explains.
Sharifah Nurul Afzan notes that she chose the name Bia after the Titan goddess of power and strength, which is how she wants her customers to feel when they put on her clothes.
"All our pieces are named after Greek stars and constellations because stars shine bright, and you will definitely shine in our blazers!
Blazers are a classic staple that everyone should have in their wardrobe and I wanted to elevate them with embellishments. Bia creations are timeless investment pieces and statement occasion wear."
The journalism graduate says Bia adopts the made-to-order model to prevent overproduction.
"In our bid to do our part for the environment, we advocate the buying of better quality garments that will last longer and reduce the risk of dead stock and textile waste clogging our landfills. Our garments are only produced once a customer has confirmed a purchase," explains Sharifah Nurul Afzan.
Her debut collection, available at www.biathecollective.com and on Instagram @bia.thecollective, features several blazers, two dresses, and a bomber jacket – all modelled by her friend and muse, actress Che' Puan Juliana Evans.
